full transcript

From the Ted Talk by Nick Pizzo: The physics of surfing

Unscramble the Blue Letters

Now you’ve caught the wave, and are riding along its front face parallel to the srhlnioee. Fins on the surfboard allow you to alter your seepd and doriiectn by rinoitoinpseg your weight. Above you is the wave’s cerst, where the water particles are undergoing their greatest acceleration. That forces them to move faster than the underlying wave, so they shoot ahead before falling under gravity’s influence. This forms the waves’ ccaseahttrriic curls, or jets, as they break along the shore. Sometimes, the curl might completely enclose part of the wave, forming a moving tube of water known as the barrel. Because of irregularities in the seafloor and the swlel itself, few barrels last as long as the legendary 27-second ride off the csoat of Namibia. But many who magnae to get barreled have said they feel time passing differently inside, making it one of the most magical experiences a surfer can have.

Open Cloze

Now you’ve caught the wave, and are riding along its front face parallel to the _________. Fins on the surfboard allow you to alter your _____ and _________ by _____________ your weight. Above you is the wave’s _____, where the water particles are undergoing their greatest acceleration. That forces them to move faster than the underlying wave, so they shoot ahead before falling under gravity’s influence. This forms the waves’ ______________ curls, or jets, as they break along the shore. Sometimes, the curl might completely enclose part of the wave, forming a moving tube of water known as the barrel. Because of irregularities in the seafloor and the _____ itself, few barrels last as long as the legendary 27-second ride off the _____ of Namibia. But many who ______ to get barreled have said they feel time passing differently inside, making it one of the most magical experiences a surfer can have.

Solution

  1. repositioning
  2. shoreline
  3. crest
  4. direction
  5. speed
  6. coast
  7. swell
  8. characteristic
  9. manage

Original Text

Now you’ve caught the wave, and are riding along its front face parallel to the shoreline. Fins on the surfboard allow you to alter your speed and direction by repositioning your weight. Above you is the wave’s crest, where the water particles are undergoing their greatest acceleration. That forces them to move faster than the underlying wave, so they shoot ahead before falling under gravity’s influence. This forms the waves’ characteristic curls, or jets, as they break along the shore. Sometimes, the curl might completely enclose part of the wave, forming a moving tube of water known as the barrel. Because of irregularities in the seafloor and the swell itself, few barrels last as long as the legendary 27-second ride off the coast of Namibia. But many who manage to get barreled have said they feel time passing differently inside, making it one of the most magical experiences a surfer can have.

Frequently Occurring Word Combinations

ngrams of length 2

collocation frequency
wave energy 2

Important Words

  1. acceleration
  2. alter
  3. barrel
  4. barreled
  5. barrels
  6. break
  7. caught
  8. characteristic
  9. coast
  10. completely
  11. crest
  12. curl
  13. curls
  14. differently
  15. direction
  16. enclose
  17. experiences
  18. face
  19. falling
  20. faster
  21. feel
  22. fins
  23. forces
  24. forming
  25. forms
  26. front
  27. greatest
  28. influence
  29. irregularities
  30. jets
  31. legendary
  32. long
  33. magical
  34. making
  35. manage
  36. move
  37. moving
  38. namibia
  39. parallel
  40. part
  41. particles
  42. passing
  43. repositioning
  44. ride
  45. riding
  46. seafloor
  47. shoot
  48. shore
  49. shoreline
  50. speed
  51. surfboard
  52. surfer
  53. swell
  54. time
  55. tube
  56. undergoing
  57. underlying
  58. water
  59. wave
  60. weight